UNIQUE SERIES AKTU Syllabus
BBFD456

Fabric Studies

L-T-P0-0-2 Credits1 Session2025-26 TypeLab / Practical
Appears in 1 semester

BFAD · Sem 4 (Lab)

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Syllabus

5 units · 40 lecture hours
Unit1

Unit 1: HAND STITCHES

8 hrs

Padding stitch – to attach interfacing to the outer fabric. Slip basting- for matching of plaids, checks, strips and large prints. Heavy duty basting- for joining different sections of heavy garment such as denim, gabardine, tweeds, flannel, hounds’ tooth etc. Faggoting stitch- for joining two fabric sections with a space in between. French tack- for linking two separate garment sections. Hem stitch- for linens and handkerchiefs

Unit2

Unit 2: SEAMS

8 hrs

Cornered (For heavy, medium & light weight fabrics). Bias bound- for unlined garments. Hong Kong- for heavy fabrics. Net bound- for fabrics such as velvet or chiffon etc. Flat felled – for sports and children’s wear. French- for sheer fabrics. Self-bound- for light fabrics. Hair line- for collars, cuffs and facings in sheer fabrics. Zigzag- for fur and fake fur fabrics. Double stitched seam- for very textured sheers such as heavy lace, also for knits- tricot and jersey etc. Over lock stitch- for knits. Lapped- for eliminating bulk especially on interfacing and interlining. Corded- for fabrics used in apparel and home furnishings. Joining unlike fabrics- such as knits to woven, pile to smooth, etc.

Unit3

Unit 3: HEMS

8 hrs

Turned up hems. Uncovered hem edges: Turned and stitched edge (suitable for light weight fabrics); Stitched and pinked edge (suitable for fabrics that fray little or not at all); Stitched and overcast edge (suitable for medium - heavy to heavy weight fabrics that fray); Zigzagged edge (suitable for knits). Covered hem edges: Seam binding (for fabrics that fray); Bias tape (for garments with a flared shape); Hong Kong finish (suitable for heavy or bulky fabrics). Double-stitched hem- for very heavy fabrics. Fusing a hem with fusible web (a sheer nonwoven material that melts).

Unit4

Unit 4: SEWING DEFECTS

8 hrs

Skip or slipped stitches. Staggered stitches. Unbalanced seams. Variable stitch density. Thread breakage. Puckering, etc.

Unit5

Unit 5: WORKING WITH TRIMS AND FASTNERS

8 hrs

Application of different trims and fasteners on different fabrics. Application of laces. Hook and eye. Snap fastener. Button and button hole. Button loops. Shank buttons, etc.

Practical Work

  1. Suggested Assignments
  2. •Develop fabric samples of various types of hand stitches (as mentioned in Unit –I) using appropriate fabric for each stitch (minimum two types of fabric samples for each stitch).
  3. •Develop fabric samples of different types of seams and seam finishes (as mentioned in Unit-II) using suitable fabric for each seam (minimum two types of fabric samples for each seam).
  4. •Develop samples of different types of hems using appropriate finishing techniques on suitable fabrics (minimum two samples from each category given in Unit- III).
  5. •Finish samples of different types of fabrics using appropriate techniques of mitering (as mentioned in Unit III).
  6. •Observe and document sewing defects in garments and suggest solutions for each defect.
  7. •Develop samples of different types of fasteners and trims on various types of fabrics (minimum two types of fabric samples for each fastener and trim).
  8. NOTE: All assignments to be submitted in the form of a portfolio. All swatches should be properly mounted and labelled.
  9. Suggested Visits
  10. •Market
  11. •Boutiques
  12. •Old city market
  13. •Tailors’ shop
Course Objectives5 points
  • To understand the sewing behaviour of various fabrics
  • To learn the finishing techniques for garments viz a viz the physical properties of fabrics
  • To acquire knowledge of various types of seams, seam finishes and hem finishes etc. viz a viz their suitability for different fabrics
  • To understand the suitability of different fabric closures and their application for various fabrics
  • To learn the causes of sewing defects and their rectification
Course Outcomes (COs)5 outcomes

After completion of the course student will be able to:

  1. •Be able to handle different types of fabrics
  2. •Understand the finishing techniques in a garment with regard to the physical properties of the fabrics
  3. •Be able to apply appropriate seam and hem finishes in various types of fabrics and garment components
  4. •Acquire the skill of producing finished seams
  5. •Be able to identify different types of sewing defects and their possible solutions
Text Books & References17 books

Textbooks

  1. Carr H. &, Latham, B., The Technology of Clothing Manufacture, Blackwell Scientific Publication, 1984
  2. Crawford, C. A., A Guide to Fashion Sewing, Fairchild Publications, 2008
  3. Reader’s Digest Association, New Complete Guide to Sewing: Step by Step Techniques for Making Clothes and Home Accessories, 2005
  4. Shoben, M. M. & Ward, J. P., Pattern Cutting and Making Up: The Professional Approach, CBS Publishers & Distributers (P) Ltd., New Delhi, 1997

Reference Books

  1. Clair, B. S., The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cut, Sterling Publication, 1981
  2. Cooklin, A.G., Garment Technology For Fashion Designers, Black wellScience, 1997
  3. Cooklin. G., Introduction to Clothing Manufacture, Blackwell Scientific Publication, 2000
  4. Eaton, J., The Encyclopedia of Sewing Techniques, Hamlyn Publishing, 1986
  5. Raoul Jewel, Encyclopedia of Dress Making, APH Publishing Corporation, 2000
  6. Shaeffer, G., Fabric Sewing Guide, Krause Publications, 2008
  7. Singer Sewing, Creative Publication International, 1999
  8. Kadolph, Sara J., Textiles (10th Edition), Dorling Kindersley (India) Pvt. Ltd., 2009

Online Resources

  1. http://www.simplicity.com/t-teaching-tools-seam-basics.aspx
  2. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3702/seam-finishes-for-silks
  3. http://gorgeousfabrics.com/blog/2010/10/22/tips-and-tricks-for-sewing-with-knitsrevisited/
  4. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4584/a-primer-on-sewing-knits
  5. http://www.afashionablestitch.com/2011/sewing/self-finished-seams-pt-ii/

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Official AKTU syllabus

This subject is on page 53, 54, 55 of the original AKTU PDF.

Official AKTU syllabus PDF ↗